Kashmir Ki Meri Yatra Aur Anubhav - Book Summary

Here's a comprehensive summary of the Jain text "Kashmir ki Meri Yatra aur Anubhav" by Darbarilal Kothiya, focusing on the author's experiences and observations during his journey to Kashmir in 1954:

Journey to Kashmir: Motivation and Travel

The author, Darbarilal Kothiya, harbored a long-standing desire to visit Kashmir, the "crown of India and playground of beauty." His wish was intensified when, after meeting Acharya Nami Sagarji Maharaj in Meerut, he fell ill with low blood pressure. Friends and well-wishers advised him to travel to Kashmir for recovery, which further strengthened his resolve.

On May 22, 1954, Kothiya, accompanied by his wife and L. Makkhanlal Jain, a contractor from Delhi, departed for Kashmir by the Kashmir Mail. After obtaining a three-month pass from the Indian Government's Kashmir Department, they reached Pathankot the next morning. From Pathankot, they took an N.D. Radhakrishna Bus Company bus to Srinagar. They reached Jammu by noon, had lunch, and continued their journey. After crossing several valleys, they arrived at Banihal by 8:30 PM, where they spent the night. Banihal marks the beginning of a pleasant chill after the heat of Jammu.

Experiences in Kashmir's Valleys and Natural Beauty

Kothiya was deeply impressed by the towering valleys and natural scenery of Kashmir. He particularly enjoyed walking on snow-covered rocks and experiencing the snow at Tanil, the highest point on their route at nine thousand feet. After Tanil, the descent began, with the bus navigating winding mountain roads. They reached Khannabal by 7 AM on May 24, just 30 miles from Srinagar.

Exploration of Key Tourist Destinations

Instead of going directly to Srinagar, Kothiya and his companions decided to explore other places first, believing it would save time, energy, and money. They alighted at Khannabal and took a tonga to Mattan, arriving by 11 AM.

Mattan: They stayed at the house of Pandit Shivram Nilkanth Pande, a charitable and respectable person. Mattan is a significant Hindu pilgrimage site with abundant water. It features three kunds (water tanks) fed by a large spring, and the Lambodari River flows nearby. A new bridge costing ₹1.25 lakh was under construction on the river. The author highlights a remarkable 22-mile-long canal dug during Maharaja Pratap Singh's reign by a Sikh named Gandasingh to irrigate hill farms, a feat that earned Gandasingh the position of Chief Engineer. A dak bungalow near the canal was a place where Kothiya and L. Makkhanlal Jain engaged in scripture study and philosophical discussions.
Martand Temple: About a mile from Mattan lies the famous and grand Martand Temple, built in 856 AD by Avantivarman (Shrivarma) and destroyed in 1390 AD by Sultan Sikandar. Kothiya was astonished by the massive stones of the temple and pondered how they were hoisted to such heights without modern cranes. He notes that the temple's name is believed to be the origin of Mattan's name.
Kukarnag: On June 3, they traveled by bus from Mattan to Kukarnag, a journey of 19 miles. Kukarnag offers good accommodation and several springs with excellent, health-promoting water, forming a river named 'Kukarnag'. The state government maintained a bungalow for tourists on the hill, with another under construction. A spring a mile away containing lime is reputed to cure skin diseases like itching due to its calcium content. Many people stayed in Kukarnag for extended periods due to its salubrious climate, surrounded by pine trees and green fields.
Anantnag: This is a district in Kashmir with two notable springs. One is a sulfur spring near a mosque, known for its beneficial properties for skin ailments. Another spring has been developed into several kunds. The carpets (gabba) from Anantnag are particularly famous.
Achabal: Described as a must-see place in Kashmir, Achabal features famous springs and a garden adorned with fountains. It's believed these fountains were built by Noor Jahan, wife of Jahangir, for her entertainment. The place attracts many tourists. It is also known for preserved fish weighing between 5 to 7 seers.
Verinag: The author visited Verinag by horse. It boasts a beautiful 54-foot deep, hexagonal, blue lake from which the Jhelum River originates.
Pahalgam: After spending nine days in Kukarnag, they returned to Mattan and stayed for another eleven days before proceeding to Pahalgam on June 24. Pahalgam is declared the most beautiful place in all of Kashmir, an unparalleled repository of natural beauty. The Lambodari and Ahoo rivers merge here, flowing towards Mattan. The serene valleys are flanked by towering, snow-capped mountains. They rented a beautiful and airy "Khalsa Kothi" for ₹13 per day. Various accommodation options like hotels, kothis, houses, and tents were available, with 600 students and teachers from Delhi staying in these facilities. From Pahalgam, they visited Viceroy and Shikargha, beautiful meadows located about a mile away. On July 1, Kothiya, with his wife, rode horses to Chandanwari, 8 miles from Pahalgam, where the Lambodari flows beneath a snow bridge, creating a picturesque scene. The snow bridge is a significant attraction, serving as the starting point for the Amarnath Yatra.
Srinagar: They departed from Pahalgam on the morning of July 2 and reached Srinagar by 11 AM. En route, they visited Avantipur, where they saw a large, ruined Hindu temple similar to the Martand Temple. In Srinagar, they stayed at Vijay Hotel, while L. Makkhanlal Jain stayed at Majestic Hotel. They were happy to meet L. Harishchandra ji and Pandit Kailashchandra ji from Banaras, whom they had previously met in Pahalgam and Mattan.
Srinagar Attractions: On July 4, they explored Dal Lake, Chashma Shahi, Nishat, Shalimar, and Harwan Bagh by tonga. These are all famous and beautiful places in Srinagar. Dal Lake is a large and captivating lake with a Nehru Park and a hotel. Chashma Shahi's water is described as tasty and digestive. They visited Harwan, which has a blue lake formed by springs, followed by Shalimar and Nishat. Nishat Bagh is particularly beautiful, with fountains and cascades created from spring water flowing from the mountains. This garden, also attributed to Noor Jahan, was a place for her recreation.
Gulmarg and Khilnamarg: On July 5, they traveled by bus to Tanmarg to visit Gulmarg and Khilnamarg. Motor buses only go up to Tanmarg; from there, they traveled by horse. Both places are situated on high hills. Gulmarg is a vast meadow with many hotels and houses where tourists stay for months. Due to rain, they could only spend 10-15 minutes there. Khilnamarg is also a beautiful plateau at a high altitude with nearby snow patches where people enjoy walking and playing. On their way, they saw a location that was attacked by raiders and Pakistani forces in 1947, which was only five miles from Srinagar. They returned to Srinagar by 5:30 PM the same day.

Srinagar's Markets and the Journey Back

Kothiya found Srinagar's markets enticing, with items of intricate and fine craftsmanship. He praised the woodwork, woolen and silk textiles, baskets, gabbas, namdas, and saffron as specialities of the region. The sight of the Jhelum River filled with boats and shikaras was also captivating, with its seven bridges being noteworthy.

On July 7, they left Srinagar by N.D. Radhakrishna Bus and arrived in Pathankot on July 8. They then took the Kashmir Mail, departing at 5:50 PM, and reached Delhi safely on the morning of July 9. They were warmly welcomed at the station by Pandit Babulalji Jamadar, Pandit Mannulalji Shastri, Bhagat Harishchandraji, and the student community.

Concluding Thoughts and Observations

At the time of his visit, Kothiya was the Principal of the Samantabhadra Sanskrit Vidyalaya. He identified Pahalgam, Chandanwari, Achabal, Dal Lake, Verinag, Kukarnag, and Nishat Bagh as the key places enhancing Kashmir's beauty.

He importantly notes that despite having a 75% Muslim population, cow slaughter is legally banned in the state. He commends the gentleness, goodness, and simplicity of the local people, and found food and drink to be affordable and of good quality. Quoting Kalhana's Rajatarangini, he asserts Kashmir's ancient connection with India and its integral status as part of the nation. He concludes by emphasizing the need for continued growth in cultural and friendly relations with Kashmir.