Darjiling

Added to library: September 1, 2025

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First page of Darjiling

Summary

Here is a comprehensive summary of the Jain text "Darjiling" by Vrajbhai Patel, based on the provided pages:

Book Title: Darjiling Author: Vrajbhai Patel Publisher: Gurjar Granthratna Karyalay

This book, "Darjiling," is part of the "Vidhyarthi Vachanamala" (Student Reading Series) and specifically the eighth volume (14-158). It provides a detailed account of Darjiling, a prominent hill station in North India, highlighting its natural beauty, accessibility, culture, and people.

Introduction and Comparison with Other Hill Stations:

  • Darjiling is introduced alongside other North Indian hill stations like Shimla, Mussoorie, and Nainital, all located in the Himalayan region.
  • It is difficult to definitively say which is more beautiful, as all possess the natural splendor of the Himalayas, the coolness of high altitudes, and the diversity of mountainous terrain.
  • However, Darjiling is famously referred to as the "Queen of the hill-stations."

Historical Context of Hill Stations in India:

  • The text clarifies that hill stations in India as they exist today were primarily established during the British rule.
  • This was due to the British, being inhabitants of cooler regions, seeking refuge from the unbearable summer heat of the Indian plains.
  • The need for hill stations arose as British officials had to move to the cooler hills during the summer months.
  • While modern hill stations are British creations, Indians have historically appreciated mountain beauty and frequented sacred places in hilly regions. Examples cited include Girnar and Palitana in Kathiawad, Jain temples on Mount Abu, the Ajanta caves, and pilgrimage sites in the Himalayas like Haridwar, Badrinath, and Kedarnath.

Location and Accessibility of Darjiling:

  • Darjiling serves as the summer capital of Bengal.
  • It is located 786 miles north of Kolkata.
  • The journey from Gujarat to Darjiling typically involves traveling from Mumbai to Kolkata.
  • The total distance from Mumbai to Darjiling is approximately 1609 miles, and the train journey takes about 40 hours.
  • The author emphasizes the long journey required from Gujarat, traversing diverse landscapes of India, from the fertile lands of Gujarat, the coastal regions of Mumbai, the Western Ghats, the plains of Central India, and finally reaching Kolkata before heading northeast to Darjiling.

The Darjiling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train):

  • The book highlights the construction of a unique mountain railway from Siliguri to Darjiling.
  • This railway, with narrow gauge tracks (only two feet apart), is described as exceptional, even astonishing experienced engineers.
  • Building a railway through the valleys and hills of the Himalayas, the world's highest mountain range, was a challenging undertaking.
  • Construction began in 1879 and was completed in 1881, inaugurated by Sir Ashley Eden, the Lieutenant Governor of Bengal.
  • The cost of building this railway was approximately ₹47,000 per mile, underscoring its significance and the effort involved.
  • The railway played a crucial role in Darjiling's rapid development, making it accessible to a wider population.

The Landscape and Environment:

  • The region from Siliguri to Darjiling is described as very picturesque, embodying the saying "mountains are beautiful from afar."
  • This is the beginning of the Himalayas, though not as high as the main ranges.
  • The higher Himalayan peaks are located behind these hills.
  • Heavy rainfall during the monsoon season shapes the landscape and supports lush vegetation, including forests with tall trees, bamboo reaching fifty feet, Sal, Teak, and India Rubber.
  • The diversity of flora changes with increasing altitude and cooler temperatures.
  • The text notes that the rivers and streams in this region demonstrate India's potential for generating hydroelectric power, countering arguments that India lacks resources for large industries due to a scarcity of coal.
  • The journey through these forests by train is described as a unique experience.

Ghum Station and the Approach to Darjiling:

  • Ghum station is located at an elevation of 7,407 feet above sea level.
  • The slopes around Darjiling are covered with tea gardens, from which tea is sent to Kolkata.
  • Due to the high altitude, dense fog is common in Ghum during mornings and evenings, making navigation difficult.
  • Darjiling is just three to four miles from Ghum. As the train descends, the first glimpses of Darjiling appear.
  • At night, with bungalows and market lights visible, Darjiling is described as very beautiful.

Population and Climate:

  • Darjiling has a population of approximately 20,000, with a majority being Hindus (12,000), followed by Buddhists (5,000), and then Muslims and Christians.
  • The town experiences three seasons: winter, summer, and monsoon.
  • Winter and monsoon are less popular with tourists due to extreme cold and heavy rainfall, respectively.
  • Summer is the peak tourist season when people from the plains seek respite from the heat.
  • Darjiling's population significantly increases during the summer months.

Darjiling as an Educational and Service Hub:

  • Due to its substantial permanent population, Darjiling differs from other hill stations.
  • It has a good number of kindergartens, schools, and colleges, making it an educational center.
  • There are hospitals for patients, and markets and shops to cater to the needs of visitors and residents.

Altitude and Temperature:

  • Darjiling's elevation ranges from 6,500 to 7,500 feet above sea level, resulting in cool weather.
  • While Gujarat cities can experience temperatures of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit in summer, Darjiling's temperature rarely exceeds 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Winters are very cold, with temperatures dropping to around 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • The average annual temperature is around 56 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Winter and monsoon are considered unsuitable for tourists.

Monsoon and its Impact:

  • During the monsoon, the sky is often overcast, and fog is prevalent, obscuring the views of the snow-capped Himalayan ranges.
  • Rainfall is very heavy, averaging around 120 inches per year, compared to 30-35 inches in Gujarat.
  • Despite the heavy rainfall, the water drains quickly down the slopes, preventing waterlogging and minimizing mosquito infestation.

Western Influence and Amenities:

  • Darjiling, like other hill stations, shows the influence of Western culture.
  • Instead of traditional dharamshalas (rest houses), there are Western-style hotels.
  • Prominent hotels mentioned include Mount Everest, Park, Grand, and Central.
  • While these hotels offer excellent facilities, they are expensive for the common person.

Recreational Activities and Transportation:

  • Darjiling is an ideal destination for those seeking fresh air, health, natural beauty, and relaxation.
  • Miles of shaded roads are available for walking, and the cool air makes even long walks less tiring.
  • Vehicles like rickshaws and horses are available for transport.
  • Footpaths and smaller roads connect to the main roads, catering to walkers and encouraging exploration.

City Layout and Roads:

  • Darjiling is spread across a large hill extending from north to south, with a shorter east-west width.
  • The roads are generally parallel, running north-south.
  • Cart Road is the longest road, running parallel to the railway in the west, extending north as Lebong Cart Road, and continuing into the mountains.
  • Race Course is located in the north, where horse races are held.
  • Mall Road (East and West) runs north, eventually joining to form West Birch Hill Road, which turns into East Birch Hill Road and meets the Rangit Road.
  • Rangit Road and Calcutta Road are the main arterial roads in the mountainous parts of Darjiling.
  • Chowrasta is a central location where many roads meet, surrounded by shops.
  • Jalapahar Road, Commercial Road, and Auckland Road branch off south from Chowrasta.

Places of Interest:

  • The book lists several attractions for visitors to explore over a fortnight: Ghum Station, Jalapahar, Town Hall, Tiger Hill, Lebong, Bhul Bhulaiya (Museum), Government House, Mount Everest Hotel, Eden Sanatorium, Observatory Hill, Botanical Gardens, Bazaar, Bhutia Busti, Children's Pleasures, Power House, Water Works, etc.

Observatory Hill:

  • This is one of the highest hills in Darjiling.
  • It is a popular spot for crowds in the morning and evening to view the snow-capped Himalayan peaks.
  • The panoramic views of the Himalayan peaks are exceptional, especially during sunrise and sunset when sunlight illuminates the snow-covered summits with various colors.
  • The beauty is further enhanced during full moon nights when the setting sun and rising moon create a magical scene.

Kanchenjunga and the Etymology of Darjiling:

  • Many Himalayan peaks are over 16,000 feet high, with permanent snow due to the snow line at this altitude.
  • Kanchenjunga is clearly visible from Observatory Hill due to its height and the bluish color of its rocks within the snow.
  • The sight of Kanchenjunga, with the surrounding forests below and its snow-capped peak, offers a profound realization of nature's beauty and vastness.
  • The origin of the name "Darjiling" is discussed. It is believed to come from a monastery named "Darje-ling," where "Darje" means rainbow and "Ling" means place in Tibetan, thus "Place of the Rainbow." The silver colors of rainbows might have been visible from here.
  • The monastery was destroyed by Gurkhas from Nepal in the early 19th century but still retains its sacredness. Hundreds of devotees visit on festivals.
  • A cave near the monastery is believed by locals (Bhutias or Lepchas) to extend all the way to Lhasa.

Buddhist Monastery and Rituals:

  • The book describes some religious rituals observed in the monastery, which would be interesting for visitors from Gujarat (where such monasteries are not found).
  • When a devotee arrives, the Lama rings a bell and recites mantras.
  • Flowers are placed in a saucer, and milk is poured over them.
  • Chandan (sandalwood paste) is applied to the devotee's shoulders, and they are given a sip of milk.
  • The Lama sprinkles milk on the devotee.
  • The Lama then takes some colored wool, offers it before the sacrificial altar, and recites mantras. The blessed wool is taken by the devotee.
  • Before leaving, devotees circumambulate the temple seven times and offer donations to the Lama.
  • The author notes that non-Buddhists are not allowed near the sacrificial altar, where services are conducted by monks.
  • Flags with prayers written on them flutter on bamboo poles around the altar. The movement of these flags is believed to represent the prayers.

Bhutia Busti and the Bhutia Community:

  • There is a monastery in the Bhutia Busti near Lebong.
  • Bhutia Busti is a small village of Lepchas, Bhutias, and Limbu people.
  • This village offers insight into the customs and way of life of these communities.

Children's Pleasures:

  • Children's Pleasures is a playground for children, located near Observatory Hill, covering about 2.5 acres.
  • It features beautiful flowerbeds and clusters of small trees, with ample facilities for children to play.
  • Watching children play evokes memories of childhood for visitors.
  • The place becomes crowded on band days.

Town Hall:

  • The Town Hall has replaced the village temple and dharamshalas in the city.
  • It is used for meetings, gatherings, and cultural events like music and dance.
  • It is located on the road from the market to the station and stands out due to its beautiful Gothic architecture.
  • It was built by the Maharaja of Bihar in memory of his father.

The Bazaar:

  • The true essence of Darjiling is experienced in its bazaar, which is held on Sundays.
  • People from all communities in the district gather here – Tibetans, Bhutias, Lepchas, Bengalis, and Marwaris.
  • Vendors lay out their goods on the ground and call out to customers, creating a cacophony of sounds.
  • The bazaar is lined with shops and includes a Hindu temple with a dome.
  • A wide variety of goods are sold, including copper-brass utensils from Tibet, intricate silver work from India, China, and Japan, iron items, shawls, woolen blankets, tiger skins, medicines, and food items.
  • Prayer wheels from Buddhist monasteries are particularly noticeable.
  • The sight of these hill folk moving through the market singing is a memorable experience for tourists.

The People of Darjiling:

  • The people of this region differ from other Indians, belonging to Mongoloid stock.
  • They have flat faces, slanted eyes, and broad noses.
  • Despite living in mountainous terrain, they are shorter and sturdier than Pathans.
  • The main ethnic groups are Bhutia and Lepcha. Nepalis and Tibetans are also found in large numbers.

Tibetan Community:

  • Women with black faces, colored with black soot, are identified as Tibetans.
  • Unlike women in other countries who use powder to appear fair, these women use soot.
  • These women manage household and external affairs, possibly using soot to conceal their beauty.
  • Tibetans are fond of tea, which is prepared differently. Their tea comes in solid blocks, which are ground into powder and boiled with water, milk, and butter.
  • Their attire typically includes long robes and sashes. They are fond of jewelry, with men also wearing earrings.
  • They are a nomadic people. Many die from freezing in the Himalayan snow.
  • They are perceived as unhygienic as bathing is not a common practice.

Bhutia Community:

  • Bhutias are preferred as domestic help due to their skills in washing utensils, fetching water, chopping wood, and carrying loads.
  • They have a significant addiction to alcohol.
  • There are three sub-groups: Tibetan Bhutias, Sikkim Bhutias, and Bhutanese Bhutias, all sharing Mongoloid features.
  • Bhutia women are hardworking, skilled in spinning and weaving woolen cloth, essential for the cold climate.
  • Many Bhutia women keep their hair loose, while others braid it into a bun. A Bhutia woman spinning wool while walking with loose hair in the wind creates a distinct impression in the Darjiling bazaar.

Lepcha Community:

  • Lepchas are identified by groups playing dice on the slopes of Darjiling.
  • They have a strong addiction to gambling and are carefree, not worrying about the future. This makes them unreliable for work.
  • According to their folklore, a couple survived a great flood and settled on Tendong mountain in Darjiling, from whom the Lepcha people descended.
  • They have their own language and literature, though historical details are scarce.
  • When Tibetans invaded their territory, the Lepchas were defeated and forced to adopt the Tibetan language and wear their hair in buns.
  • Some scholars believe Lepchas originated in Tibet and migrated to Sikkim before the spread of Buddhism there.
  • Lepchas are short, with small hands and feet. Men often appear effeminate due to their features and lack of significant facial hair. Both men and women have black hair, worn in one or two braids respectively.
  • As inhabitants of forests, they possess extensive knowledge of local flora and fauna.

Limbu Lepchas:

  • The Limbu Lepchas are a distinct group, similar to other Lepchas but slightly more yellow-skinned and thinner.
  • Their eyes are smaller and more slanted.
  • Limbu women are responsible for wearing jewelry and adornments. Their attire is simple, and they are not as inclined towards jewelry as Bhutia or Tibetan women.
  • These hill people cultivate fields in the valleys, cut wood in the forests, or work in the tea gardens on the mountain slopes.

Tea Gardens:

  • Numerous tea gardens are located on the slopes surrounding Darjiling.
  • These gardens started in 1856-57 and provide employment to hundreds of laborers.
  • However, they are primarily owned by Europeans, who earn substantial profits from them.

Tiger Hill and Mount Everest:

  • Mount Everest, at 29,002 feet, is the highest peak in the Himalayas, and attempts to climb it have so far been unsuccessful.
  • Tiger Hill, about seven miles from Darjiling, offers a clear view of Mount Everest.
  • The path to Tiger Hill through the forest is beautiful, especially when flowers are in bloom.
  • Like Kanchenjunga, Mount Everest appears stunning at sunrise and sunset with its colorful rays.
  • This view is highly praised by all visitors to Darjiling.

Museum and Botanical Gardens:

  • The Darjiling Museum houses a collection of various birds and colorful butterflies from the region.
  • The Botanical Gardens display a collection of different types of vegetation found in the Himalayan region.

Excursions from Darjiling:

  • The book suggests excursions to places like the colorful river, suspension bridges, Kalimpong, and Gangtok, which are enjoyable for their natural beauty and recreational opportunities.

Conclusion:

  • The book concludes by reiterating that Darjiling offers miles of shaded roads for walking, numerous recreational facilities, pleasant and refreshing air, and beautiful views of Himalayan peaks like Everest and Kanchenjunga.
  • The abundant natural beauty is described as freely bestowed upon the region.
  • The author emphasizes that the praise for Darjiling can never be enough.

Publishing Information:

  • Publisher: Shambhulal Jagshibhai, Gurjar Granthratna Karyalay, Gandhi Road, Ahmedabad.
  • Printer: Chaturabhai Shanabhai Patel, Shri Mahendra Mudranalay, Mamani Haveli, Shakbazar, Ahmedabad.

This summary covers the main aspects of the provided text, offering a comprehensive overview of Darjiling as presented by Vrajbhai Patel.