Art And Iconography Under Jainism Jewellery In Jain Literature Of Rajasthan

This document, "Jewellery in Jain Literature of Rajasthan" by Kusum Mehta, explores the rich history and depiction of jewelry within Jain literary traditions of Rajasthan.

The author begins by situating the origins of Indian jewelry in antiquity, referencing the Vedas and epics as early sources, and noting archaeological findings like a relic casket with gold ornaments from a Buddhist shrine. Excavations in Rajasthan itself reveal the widespread use of various ornaments by women, including bangles, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, ear-pendants, beads, and girdles.

The text highlights specific Jain literary works that detail popular jewelry of the time. Haribhadra Sūri's Samarāditya Kathā (7th/8th century AD) is cited for naming ornaments like bāhūsarikā (armpit ornament), dusurullaka (neck ornament), plavangabandha (breast ornament), retanachakralata (ear ornament), chūdāratnā (forehead ornament), and jeweled finger rings. The Hamira-Mahākāvya describes Hamīrā's queens adorned with ear kundalas, forehead kasturitilakas, pearl nose pendants, pearl necklaces, anklets (nūpuras), ornaments for the dhumillas (possibly chest or breasts), finger rings, foot adornments (alaktaka), and blue dukūla on their hips. These literary descriptions are further supported by their visual representation in sculptures from Kirādū, Abū, and Pallű.

Paümsri Cariü provides an account of Paümasri's marriage where women wore auspicious kankana (bangles) with divine herbs and white mustard on their wrists. They also wore jeweled nūpuras on their feet, kundalas in their ears, mukuța on their foreheads, necklaces, and tinkling girdles.

The Kuvalaymala mentions ornaments like Manirasana, Markatamanikani-Kauthika, and items made of pearl and gold. It also notes that even poor village women used simple shell bangles and ornaments adorned with shining glass pieces instead of precious jewels. The author suggests that the Pallu Saraswatis (sculptures) offer a good visual representation of Rajasthani ornaments, depicting round kundalas, neck ornaments known as Hansali and Jhulara, multi-stringed necklaces, and chest/breast chains (purasutra or stana-sutra). Other easily identifiable ornaments mentioned include Keyura, Bahubandha, Akankana, Valaya, angullayakas, mekhala, and nupura.

The text also emphasizes that men were not behind women in their use of ornaments. The Upamitibhayaprapancakatha mentions mukuta, angada, kundala, and pralamba worn by men, and later describes a young man with a pearl chest ornament called mukta kalpa and arm amulets (keyura and kataka). The PrithvirajaVijaya recounts a Chahamana king wearing a gem-studded kirita, a pearl necklace, pearl-adorned kundalas, and arm ornaments (Keyuras). The widespread use of ornaments by both sexes is corroborated by accounts from travelers like Alberuni and Abuzaid.

Regarding the specific context of Jainism, the author notes that Jain scriptures describe the ornaments of Aharians as primarily consisting of terracotta beads, with only a few incorporating semi-precious stones like microcline, carnelian, shell, and faience. Jinaratna Suri's treatise on Udaipur Varnana lists several ornaments, including suwarni (gold bead necklace), urvasi (necklace), manikyamala (ruby necklace), sovanpan (betel-leaf shaped ornament), and Jhanjhar (tinkling anklet).

Finally, the document provides a categorized list of popular ornaments of ancient and medieval Rajasthan, categorized by body part:

• Head: Malaya, Garbhak, Lalamak, Hansa-tilak, Dandak, Chura-Mandar, Churika, Mukuta Bars, Mukta-Kantaka, Dwirajika, Trirajika, Kundala, Bajra-garbha, Karnapur, Karnika, Karendu, and Srinkhala.
• Neck: Pralambika, Uralsutrika, Ekavali, and Devachchchanda.
• Arms: Keyura, Panchaka, and Kataka.
• Rings: Dwi-Hiraka, Nay-ratna, Sukti, and Mudrika.
• Girdles: Kanchi, Mekhala, Rasava, Kalan, and Kanchidam.
• Feet: Padachara, Pada Rantaka, Pada-padma, Kiskini, Mudrika, and Nupura.

In essence, the document illustrates how Jain literature in Rajasthan provides valuable insights into the prevalence, types, and cultural significance of jewelry worn by both men and women during ancient and medieval periods, reflecting a vibrant tradition of adornment deeply intertwined with social life and religious narratives.